Portuguese Sardine

The sardinha — sardine — is perhaps the most unexpectedly charming of all European lucky symbols, a small blue-silver fish that has become one of Portugal's most beloved national emblems through the annual Festas de Lisboa (Lisbon Festivals) of June, during which decorative paper, ceramic, and textile sardines festoon the streets of Alfama and are given as gifts between friends and family in a celebration that has been running for centuries.

The sardine's centrality to Portuguese culture comes from its historical importance as a cheap, abundant, and nourishing food that sustained the Portuguese working class through generations. The sardine was democratic sustenance — everyone could afford it, and it was eaten grilled over charcoal on the streets during June festivals with the smell of charred fish and olive smoke becoming the olfactory emblem of Lisbon in summer. What began as the food of the poor became the symbol of the people's joyful abundance.

Decorative sardines — increasingly elaborate and artistic as artisans compete to create the most beautiful version each year for the June festivals — are among Portugal's most creative contemporary craft objects. They are painted, embroidered, tiled, sculpted, and woven in every possible material and style. The sardine as a lucky charm represents the abundance that comes from the sea, the democratic sharing of good fortune, and the Portuguese quality of finding beauty and celebration in simple things.